Essential Algarve shares the history of three of Silves’ most iconic restaurants

By: Beatriz Maio

Photo: Recanto dos Mouros ©Hélio Ramos

Savouring Silves

Steeped in culture, tradition and authentic gastronomy, Silves boasts a number of historic and iconic restaurants serving Portuguese cuisine where guests feel at home whilst savouring dishes that will stay with them forever.

One of Portugal’s oldest towns and the capital of the Algarve for several centuries, Silves transports us directly to the ancient Arab kingdom through its castle and fortified walls.

Marisqueira Rui ©Hélio Ramos

As you walk around the cobbled streets, there is one place you cannot miss: Marisqueira Rui. Popular with locals and tourists who regularly visit the region, the restaurant has been open since 1977, when Rui Guerreiro, a native of Silves, fulfilled his dream of running his own business.

After working for years in the restaurant business, he decided that the time had come to open his own place, and what started out as a small snack bar has become a landmark and a huge success in the Algarve. Here, the seafood stands out for its quality, variety and freshness, and the fish and meat dishes are second to none.

Marisqueira Rui ©Hélio Ramos

Diners are greeted by the huge live seafood display tank at the entrance to the restaurant, which has three spacious dining rooms. The décor, with cork lining the walls and maritime motifs, creates a cosy and familiar atmosphere.

There is a sense of ease and familiarity, thanks to the informal atmosphere and friendly staff who make the space even more welcoming.

Marisqueira Rui ©Hélio Ramos

“We have a fast, efficient and professional service. Our attentive staff has been loyal to the restaurant for many years; they are literally always running from table to table,” explains Sérgio David, the owner’s son and now manager of Marisqueira Rui.

Like any good Portuguese establishment, there is never a shortage of bread, served with their famous garlic mayo, and a cold beer, the perfect start to an unforgettable meal. If you fancy something cosy, Sérgio recommends the fish cataplana or the seafood rice stew.

Marisqueira Rui ©Hélio Ramos

But to experience the true taste of the sea, you can indulge in the mista especial, a large platter filled with crab, lobster, langoustine, goose barnacles, whelks, clams, boiled prawns and grilled medium prawns.

To wash it down, the manager suggests a white wine or vinho verde, with labels from all over the country, including Marquês dos Vales Grace Vineyard, produced by Quinta dos Vales in Estômbar, or Quinta da Pedra Alvarinho, from the municipality of Monção.

Marisqueira Rui ©Hélio Ramos

As the Algarve is also known for its sweets, finish off the meal with a Dom Rodrigo (threads of egg yolk and sugar soaked in a sweet syrup and cinnamon) or a typical carob, almond and fig tart.

Four years after the opening of this iconic venue came another restaurant that has become part of Silves’ identity. Ponte Romana opened in 1981 by Silves-native Aníbal da Conceição Rodrigues, who wanted to bring life to his home and decided to transform it into a place for everyone.

Ponte Romana ©Hélio Ramos

The family restaurant is currently run by the owner’s son, Bruno Rodrigues, who relies on his father’s “unwavering presence and support”.

With a décor that beautifully blends rustic and modern elements, such as wood beams on the walls, antique sewing machines and crockery, restored cartwheels, and furniture that gives the space a grandmother’s home feel, diners are invited to take in the relaxed and inviting atmosphere.

Ponte Romana ©Hélio Ramos

Although preserving tradition is a key focus of this family-run restaurant, the team also likes to surprise customers with “new flavours and fusions”, explains the manager, who helps out both in the kitchen and front of house.

Ponte Romana ©Hélio Ramos

“Our kitchen here, where we create unique dishes using only the freshest ingredients, feels like our kitchen at home,” he states.

The menu features typical Portuguese specialities such as fish cataplana and lamb stew, as well as a wide choice of fresh fish and premium meats, all grilled over charcoal. To share, there are three delicious and well-served mixed platters – Mirandesa, Terra e Mar or Black Pork.

Ponte Romana ©Hélio Ramos

The restaurant highlights wines produced in the municipality of Silves, such as the Dito Cujo and Paxá labels, which please both local and international diners who regularly visit the restaurant.

Homemade desserts are a must, and you can opt for a traditional sweet such as chocolate mousse, almond tart or biscuit cake, or for a more original dish such as avocado and lime cheesecake or drunken pear.

Ponte Romana ©Hélio Ramos

For a personalised event experience, Ponte Romana has an adjacent room suitable for groups of up to 250 people and a large outdoor area with orange trees that makes guests feel like they are in a beautiful country house.

Passionate about the business and customer service excellence, the Rodrigues family decided to open, in the same space, a guesthouse with a swimming pool overlooking the city and the river.

Ponte Romana ©Hélio Ramos

With a wonderful view of Silves Castle, the family-run Recanto dos Mouros restaurant is celebrating its 25th anniversary, having also earned its spot as a household name in the municipality.

Like the previously-mentioned iconic restaurants, the owner’s son took over the management. As a child, Vasco Grave remembers watching his parents, Idalina and Manuel, convert their farmhouse into a restaurant that has kept its structure to this day, with two dining rooms and an outdoor area.

Fuelled by their passion and dedication to the business, the couple, although retired, can often still be found in the restaurant, making sure everything runs perfectly. “My mum is the driving force behind the restaurant’s success. Her presence in the kitchen is extraordinary; she has a gift for creating dishes, and my dad was indispensable at the bar,” says Vasco.

Front of house Vítor Silva has been working at Recanto dos Mouros since it opened and several of the staff have stayed on for one or two decades. “We’ve been growing, building our path and maturing, which has earned us more and more customers, mostly locals,” says Vasco, highlighting that they have always maintained the tradition of serving typical meat and fish dishes.

“We have our own identity based on a family atmosphere and proximity to our clients,” he says.

“We work with soul, flavour and dedication.” Over the years, neither the décor – showcasing objects that were part of the country life in the old days – nor the menu have changed significantly, with dishes that bring flavours of the sea and land to the table and have become the restaurant’s trademarks, such as lamb stew, feijoada de buzinas (whelk bean stew) and wild boar. However, there are also more modern and innovative dishes such as the flaked codfish with broccoli rabe and cornbread and other specialities such as eel stew.

Every day there are delicious suggestions that pay homage to the region and the seasons. For example, at this time of year, on weekends, they serve the traditional Portuguese stew (cozido à portuguesa), a dish that is changed for the summer. What has not changed since the opening is the delicious house dessert topped with cinnamon and egg yolk.

As for the wines, they prioritise local productions, such as the Barranco Longo wines, from Algoz, and the Odelouca wine, produced at Quinta do Francês in Silves. Diners can also try the Recanto dos Mouros wines – red, white and sparkling – produced at Monte do Remanso, in the Alentejo.

More than just a place to have a meal, these three restaurants embody the true values of local people running family businesses that have been passed down from generation to generation and stand as a tribute to their roots.