Renowned for its peaceful way of life, the Eastern Algarve is rapidly becoming a destination for city dwellers seeking a digital detox
Whether to wander through the cobbled streets of a historic city or to immerse oneself in the tranquillity of a countryside retreat, a slower type of tourism is flourishing in and around the ancient city of Tavira.
This small coastal town steeped in rich history, spanning thousands of years, was once a vital settlement for both the Romans and Moors, owing to its fishing trade and strategic location straddling the Gilão River, as it flows to the lagoons of the Ria Formosa Natural Park and winds around Tavira Island into the sea: a characteristic that has earned it the nickname of the ‘Venice of the Algarve’.
Rio Gilão Tavira
Today, the whitewashed city is thriving with a vibrant new gastronomic scene and luxurious accommodations that cater to modern travellers.
Where to stay
In the centre of town, visitors can find charming boutique hotels alongside larger establishments, such as the Pousada Convento de Tavira.
Blending ancient architecture with contemporary comfort, it is set within the historic Nossa Senhora da Graça Convent, a striking yellow building dating back to the 16th century, established by King Sebastião.
Situated within walking distance of all the key sights, it is a city oasis featuring a lush garden, a swimming pool, and an old cloister transformed into a sun-soaked patio.
Quinta do Pinheiro
For a more rustic experience, the brand-new Quinta do Pinheiro in Luz de Tavira offers a delightful farmhouse stay. Located less than 10km from the city centre, the 36-hectare property provides simple yet luxurious accommodation in five individual cottages set amid an unspoilt landscape.
To preserve the original appeal of the old farm buildings, Dutch owners Monique and Martijn collaborated with the renowned Portuguese architect Frederico Valsassina, who elegantly maintained each cottage’s historical features, from the traditional local stone floors to the distinctive Algarvian chimneys, interior courtyards, rooftop terraces, and whitewashed façades with burnt red doors and shutters.
Overlooking a garden filled with endemic plants, tall palm trees, and a glistening turquoise pool, the cottages feature two or three bedrooms and bathrooms, a sitting room, a fully equipped kitchen, and no television, to ensure complete relaxation.
The understated interiors, designed by Marta Valsassina, the architect’s daughter, blend classic allure with modern conveniences.
Adding a rustic touch, she incorporated items and decorative pieces left behind by the previous owners, such as old keys she used as wall decorations, pots and pans on kitchen shelves, and ancient tools stored in a shed transformed into a museum.
Quinta do Pinheiro
Plans for the future include additional houses, a gym, and a restaurant set to open this summer under the management of acclaimed Dutch chef Ben van Geelen. Wine is also part of the project.
Not only will the family refurbish the ancient cellar on the property, but they will also collaborate with the Casa Santos Lima wine producers to tend to their Negra Mole vines and produce a sparkling wine.
Quinta do Pinheiro
An idyllic location to laze about, read a book by the pool, enjoy a massage, or explore the surroundings by bike or kayak in the nearby Ria Formosa.
Where to eat
Historically, Tavira served as a significant fishing harbour, where tuna fishing and processing were key economic drivers until the mid-20th century.
With seafood at the heart of its culture, there is no shortage of excellent options in town, ranging from terraces along the river to hilltop fine-dining restaurants.
On one of the town’s main streets, Come na Gaveta is a popular and cosy gastrobar. Serving a fun menu ranging from burgers and tacos to risotto with scallops and black pork cheeks, it is also famous for its cocktails.
Situated on Rua Dr. Augusto da Silva Carvalho, a charming and highly Instagrammable pedestrian street adorned with bougainvillaea, O Tonel offers Mediterranean flavours.
O Tonel
Its streetside terrace is romantic, whilst indoors, the dining room features blue and white tiled walls that create a traditional Portuguese atmosphere.
Chef Luís Brito, A Ver Tavira
A more refined option, A Ver Tavira is the city’s Michelin-starred restaurant. Offering a stunning view of the city and the river from its rooftop terrace and dining room, the restaurant earned its star in 2021 thanks to chef Luís Brito’s culinary vision, consistency, and passion for local ingredients.
A Ver Tavira
There is an economical lunchtime menu and three more elaborate evening tasting options designed to take diners on a discovery of regional flavours.
Mesa Farta, Chef João Viegas
The talk of the town is the newly opened Mesa Farta. Created by João Viegas, it represents the culmination of a 20-year journey that took the young chef from A Ver Tavira to the Michelin-starred kitchen of Eleven, in Lisbon, before returning to the Algarve to be mentored by chef Leonel Pereira at São Gabriel, and then spending a couple of years at Vila Vita Parc.
Voted Chef of the Year in 2015, he also gained international experience in London with Nuno Mendes, in Spain at Mugaritz (Basque Country), and even in Peru.
Mesa Farta
Armed with international baggage, he returned to his hometown to launch his first solo project in an old warehouse near Tavira’s train station.
Beneath lofty ceilings and wooden beams, his understated dining room overlooks the open kitchen, where the chef and his brigade proudly display their skills, preparing every dish from scratch using fresh ingredients sourced from local markets and producers.
Offering “good food and good atmosphere”, Mesa Farta combines traditional Portuguese recipes with fine dining techniques.
Warm, homemade bread is served before the starters, which include Portuguese classics such as horse mackerel, octopus rissoles, and cozido croquettes, all prepared with the chef’s modern twist.
Following the seasons, the menu presents a selection of meat, fish, and vegetarian options. The massada de peixe, pasta with fresh fish from the market in a rich tomato sauce, the various meat rices, and the traditional Algarvian xerém (corn stew) with clams are served in large pots and placed in the middle of the table for everyone to dig into.
Desserts feature delightful combinations of flavours and textures, such as Algarve oranges paired with green tea from the Azores, and carob pudding with white chocolate and lavender.
What to see and do
Soak in the atmosphere at Praça da República. For centuries, this riverside square has served as the city’s hub, functioning both as a marketplace and a promenade.
It is where locals and visitors gather to see and be seen whilst sipping coffee and reading the newspaper.
Cross the Roman Bridge. One of Tavira’s most iconic and charming sights, this cobbled pedestrian bridge, renowned for its seven arches, is believed to predate Roman times. However, it acquired the misleading name for once linking the ancient Roman road between Castro Marim and Faro. Connecting the two banks of the Gilão River, it has undergone several modifications over the centuries, culminating in its current form in the 17th century.
Step back in time at Tavira Castle. A testament to Portuguese history and a significant cultural point of interest for the region, the Castle’s origins can be traced back to the 10th century, when the Moors built it. It served as a strategic fortification during the Muslim occupation of the Iberian Peninsula, safeguarding the city and the surrounding area.
Visit one of Tavira’s 21 Churches. One of the city’s claims to fame is its vast number of churches, having once boasted almost three dozen temples of various sizes and characteristics. Although several have fallen into ruin, 21 can still be visited today, including the Igreja de Santa Maria do Castelo, built over a former mosque in the 13th century.
Explore the Municipal Museum. This 16th-century palace-turned-museum is a must-visit for history and art enthusiasts alike.
The building is an architectural marvel that narrates stories from various eras, whilst its exhibitions offer insights into the region’s rich cultural heritage.
Get a 360º view of Tavira. Soaring to a height of 100 metres, the Tavira Tower, once the town’s water supply tower, now features a camera obscura, a dark room, that provides a real-time, 360-degree panoramic view of Tavira.
Barril Beach, Tavira
Take a ferry from the city to Praia da Ilha de Tavira, or travel four miles south to catch the scenic tourist train that traverses the dunes to Praia do Barril and its “anchor cemetery”, a relic from the city’s fishing days. Both destinations boast vast stretches of golden sand, serviced by rustic beach restaurants. Also not to be missed, and within walking distance of Barril, is the stunning Praia da Terra Estreita.
Take a tour of the Ria Formosa Natural Park. Enjoy a boat tour of the Ria Formosa, a natural sanctuary for birds such as flamingos, spoonbills, and various other wading birds, as well as one of the largest communities of seahorses in the world. Meander through its countless inlets of turquoise water, reminiscent of the Caribbean.
Taste local culture at the Mercado da Ribeira. Once the city’s main market, which sold everything from fresh fish to fruit, vegetables and handicrafts, this beautiful 19th-century building has now been fully refurbished to accommodate a range of shops, restaurants, and hosts regular cultural events.
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