With roots dating back 5,000 years, orange wine is quietly making a comeback in the Algarve, led by a new generation of winemakers embracing ancestral methods
The name can be misleading, particularly in the Algarve, where the orange is the region’s symbol. However, contrary to popular belief, orange wine is not made from citrus fruit; rather, it is produced from grapes and is, in fact, a type of white wine.
Morgado do Quintão
Often referred to as amber wine in other parts of the world, orange wine, or “vinho de curtimenta” (maceration wine) as it is called in Portugal, results from a winemaking technique where the juice of the grapes remains in contact with the skin and seeds after pressing, imparting its colour and, unlike white wines, a tannic profile.
Morgado do Quintão
Whilst orange wines might appear to be a novelty or an experiment that producers are exploring, they actually stem from ancient traditions that can be traced back 5,000 years to what is now Georgia, the birthplace of wine and winemaking.
How is orange wine made?
Broadly speaking, orange wine is a white wine made in the style of red. In other words, unlike conventional white wine, which involves pressing and separating the grapes from their skins, seeds, and stalks, the production of orange wine allows these solid components to macerate in the juice or must. This particular winemaking process results in the orange hue derived from anthocyanins, which are natural pigments present in the skins of the grapes.
What does orange wine taste like?
The wine’s unique flavours result from its production method. Along with the warmer orange hue, skin contact adds body, tannins, intense flavour, and other specific attributes, such as astringency and bitterness. Most orange wines are not sweet and feature bold, honeyed and nutty aromas including hazelnut, Brazil nut, bruised apple, linseed oil, juniper, sourdough and dried orange rind.
Quinta dos Vales
On the palate, orange wines are bold, dry and tannic, with a tanginess akin to fruit beer. Increased tannins from skin contact give orange wine a grippy, almost rustic texture, making it taste more like dry red wines.
How to pair orange wine?
Thanks to their natural acidity and tannins, orange wines pair well with a diverse range of foods.
Monte da Casteleja
Some of the best matches for orange wines are dishes that are typically challenging to pair with wine. It is the perfect pairing for Asian dishes such as curry, as the tannins in orange wine cut through the bold and spicy flavours, whilst its sourness pairs impeccably with fermented foods such as kimchi.
It also has the advantage of complementing both robust fish dishes and medium-textured meats, unlike red or white wines.
In short, tannic white wine is a gastronomic wine; that is, it is made to accompany food.
Orange wine in the Algarve
Orange wine has been produced in the Algarve in the past; however, possibly due to its intriguing or perhaps off-putting name, it never gained popularity.
Morgado do Quintão Curtimenta 2021
Yet today, several experimental producers in the region, such as Filipe Caldas de Vasconcellos at Morgado do Quintão in Silves, are exploring the orange wine technique.
Morgado do Quintão
The young producer is among the few in the region to embrace what is now recognised as an international trend, which has spread from its homeland in Georgia to northeastern Italy, where it is referred to as “ramato” (auburn wine), the Jura in France, where “vin jaune” (yellow wine) is produced, and all the way to the United States and Australia.
Morgado do Quintão
Renowned for its distinct wines, Morgado do Quintão produced 990 bottles of its Branco Curtimenta ‘21 (€30), a single varietal made with the Algarve’s iconic white grape variety: Crato Branco. Revealing a toasted yellow hue, it showcases notes of wax, dry straw, and fruity aromas reminiscent of persimmon. On the palate, it boasts a fantastic texture: it is long and rich, with firm acidity and a hint of salinity.
Orange Bottling June 2021 – Monte da Casteleja
In Lagos, organic wine producer Guillaume Leroux has also been experimenting with curtimenta wines at Monte da Casteleja.
His current vintage, the Monte da Casteleja Branco Curtimenta 2023 (€18.50), is a blend of Perrum, Arinto and Malvasia Fina.
Monte da Casteleja
This aromatic wine, of which 2,000 bottles were produced, offers exotic notes of lime and mango. On the palate, it is dry and has a balanced texture, enveloped by an intense mineral sensation.
Quinta dos Vales
Another delicious example of this particular type of wine is Quinta dos Vales’ Curtimenta 2023 (€19.90).
The Lagoa winery introduced this wine as part of its Fortuito range. For this limited-edition wine, of which only one barrel was produced, winemaker David Corticeiro used the Antão Vaz variety.
The wine presents a peachy hue and, on the nose, exhibits aromas of dried orange, apricot, and quince. It is fresh and crisp on the palate, retaining the same fruity profile; its tannins provide good structure, and its notable astringency induces a pleasant salivating effect.
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