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If you know where and how to look, the Algarve is ...

If you know where and how to look, the Algarve is a haven for mushroom lovers  

CANTHARELLUS RISOTTO


By: Beatriz Maio

Photo: CANTHARELLUS RISOTTO

Mushroom season: Chef João Marreiros shares his tips on how to safely find this delicious produce in the Algarve hills 

With the arrival of autumn and the first rains of the season, mushrooms begin to sprout all across the Algarve, from the coast to the hinterland.  

A lot of them are edible and there is so much variety in the wild that picking them yourself sounds inviting (always in the company of an expert). 

CHEF JOÃO MARREIROS

The Monchique hills are home to the widest variety but they can also be found from east to west, in councils such as Lagos, Portimão and Faro, with different species depending on the area. 

To learn more about what to look out for in this activity, the risks involved and the importance of always being accompanied by an expert, there is no better source than chef João Marreiros, owner of the Loki restaurant in Portimão, well-known for working with wild seasonal ingredients 

LAETIPORUS

The chef, a native of Monchique, grew up surrounded by nature and started foraging for wild mushrooms as a child, initially accompanying his godfather on his land. 

Picking mushrooms is a huge responsibility because “the simplest mistake can be fatal”, explained João Marreiros, who loves this fibre-rich food, which comes in a wide variety of shapes, textures and flavours. To add to the knowledge he acquired through his family, he studied the fungi extensively in order to be able to distinguish between the ones that can be ingested and those that are poisonous.  

“They’re very similar and it’s very easy to get it wrong,” he warned. 

BOLLEETTUSS

There are some indicators that a mushroom may be poisonous, such as yellow spots on the stem, which are often not visible to the untrained eye, or an atypical anise-like smell. It is also important to analyse the colour, since “most white mushrooms are poisonous”, the chef said, advising against foraging unaccompanied. 

LACTARIUS DELICIOSUS

The end of September to the beginning of May is the best time of year to gather wild mushrooms, ideally when it is raining more or the humidity levels are high. Throughout this period, different species appear that require specific factors for their reproduction and development, from the location of the land and pollution to the saturation of water in the soil. Near streams, away from cities, on cliffs and in the countryside are favourable places to pick mushrooms, unlike places near roads or where there’s lots of people. 

“In order to grow, each variety has its own peculiarities and requires a certain level of humidity and temperature fluctuation,” said the chef, emphasising that the weather conditions dictate when each species grows.

MACROLEPIOTA PROCERA

For example, the first to make an appearance are Laetiporus and Boletus, followed by Cantharellus cibarius and Suillus, and later by Craterellus cornucopioides and Amanita ponderosa, according to João Marreiros.

The most common species in the Algarve are Lactarius deliciosus, Macrolepiota procera, Suillus bellinii, Pleurotus and Amanita caesarea, the latter of which can even be eaten raw. 

SUILLUS BELLINII

But how do you harvest these fungi? Choosing a day with good conditions is crucial, so avoid doing it whilst it is raining; instead go right afterwards.

To pick your mushrooms, firstly you should “gently tap the cap of the mushroom before picking it so that it leaves spores in the soil and reproduces”, advises chef João Marreiros, adding that you should cut it by the stem rather than “pulling it out by the root”, thus allowing it to regenerate. It is also important to transport the mushrooms in a wicker basket rather than a plastic bag so that they can release spores to be absorbed by the surrounding soil. 

PLEUROTUS

To keep them fresh at home, mushrooms should be wrapped in kitchen paper in an open container so that they can ‘breathe’ and not absorb moisture. In the fridge, they will keep for days and some will last up to a month. The drier they are, the better they keep.

Freezing is also an option once they have been cleaned, washed, dried and cut to preserve their texture and flavour. 

AMANITA CAESAREA

Pan-fried, stewed, grilled or baked, they can be cooked in a simple or elaborate way and served simply seasoned with salt and olive oil – and garlic, for those who like it – or in an intricate dish. From beautifully presented stuffed mushrooms to mouth-wateringly deep-fried breaded mushrooms, the options are endless and flavourful. 

As for the best way to cook each species, Cantharellus are “excellent grilled in a very hot pan and great with fish or seafood, as well as for making risotto”, suggested João Marreiros.

For meat dishes, Boletus mushrooms are the perfect combination, but they can also add flavour to fish. From cooking tips, the chef moved on to his favourite dish: “Parasol mushrooms (Macrolepiota procera), cooked only in a sauté of olive oil and finely chopped garlic and onion, and served with bread fried in olive oil.” 

Mushrooms can be used in a variety of ways, from dried, crushed or powdered to a whole host of pairings, such as with asparagus, cheese, eggs, bacon or alheira (traditional Portuguese sausage, made with game meat and bread).

From humble families to royalty around the world and from traditional to Michelin-starred restaurants, mushrooms have a place at every table 

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