This discreet beach resort is set in a flourishing quiet luxury location south of Lisbon and has become a new playground for the rich and famous – and everyone wants a piece of it
Known for its endless stretches of white sand, lush rice paddies, storks perched on chimney tops and not-so-pleasant mosquito swarms, Comporta was once a discreet holiday destination for wealthy Portuguese families.
Today, it has earned the “Hamptons of Portugal” moniker thanks to its flourishing real estate scene, quiet luxury hotels, swanky restaurants, and boho-chic shops selling the local lifestyle.
Made up of several villages, including Comporta, Carvalhal and Melides, the region has become a new playground for the rich and famous, and everyone wants a piece of it.
SUBLIME COMPORTA
The French elite were some of the first to discover it. Princess Caroline of Monaco, Christian Louboutin, Philippe Starck and Jacques Grange quickly understood the destination’s potential. Others soon followed.
In Melides, the CostaTerra Golf & Ocean Club resort, developed by Discovery Land Company, has attracted the likes of George Clooney, Sharon Stone and European royals such as Princess Eugenie and her husband Jack Brooksbank, and possibly Prince Harry and Meghan Markle.
To help you navigate this luxurious enclave, we have compiled a guide to some of the area’s most exclusive addresses.
Costa Terra Golf & Ocean Club Resort
Where to stay
The region’s growing portfolio of desirable housing and resorts includes several gems.
SUBLIME COMPORTA
Sublime, the first five-star hotel in the region, was created by an ambitious couple who bought 17 hectares of pine forest in Muda.
Today, they have expanded from a dreamy hotel with a spa and fine-dining restaurant to cabana-style villas, a beach club, a restaurant in Comporta and a hotel in Lisbon.
On the way to Praia do Pego, the Quinta da Comporta wellness resort, designed by architect Miguel Câncio Martins, oozes the local lifestyle. Set on ancient rice factory grounds, its spacious whitewashed rooms offer modern comfort mixed with bohemian interior design, and the spa, housed in a large wooden barn, offers decadent rice-based treatments.
Vermelho
In Melides, Vermelho is a unique creation by Christian Louboutin.
Set within an ancient palace, this delightful five-star boutique hotel is bursting with culture and creativity. It boasts 13 exquisite rooms and a restaurant celebrating Portuguese flavours.
Pa.te.os ©Francisco Nogueira
Close by, the discreet Pa.te.os is a low-key retreat for contemporary design lovers.
The understated luxury of the four serviced houses is designed to bring the serenity of the surroundings indoors, using raw materials such as stone, wood, metal, and soft furnishings.
Where to eat on the beach
Originally known for its beach shacks serving grilled fish and pitchers of wine, today, Comporta’s beaches are populated by exclusive beach clubs and trendy restaurants offering refined cuisine and plush sunbeds.
Sal
On Praia do Carvalhal, Sal is the region’s gastronomic icon known for its delicious petiscos, fish soup and world-famous black rice with cuttlefish and aioli.
Sublime Beach Club
Next door, the Sublime Beach Club is one of the most recent beach restaurants to open. Its bohemian-chic décor sets the tone for a chilled lunch of fresh fish paired with chilled white wine.
On Praia da Comporta, Ilha do Arroz is an upscale, whitewashed beach shack serving seafood, a long list of flavourful cocktails and playing a great soundtrack. On the same stretch of sand, Comporta Café offers local and international favourites such as sushi, ceviches, and tacos.
JNcQUOI Beach Club
On Praia do Pego, the smooth and minimalistic JNcQUOI Beach Club offers a refined menu created by chef Jerónimo using local ingredients. Next door, the ski-chalet-style Praia na Comporta, designed by Philippe Starck, follows the same concept as its Praia no Parque sister restaurant in Lisbon of “great food and great fun”.
JNcQUOI Beach Club
Where to eat in town
In the village of Comporta, set in an old stable, Cavalariça is a classic where diners are seated in booths with stripy white and blue cushions and encouraged to share organic dishes.
Cavalariça restaurant
Cute and cosy, decorated in warm natural hues matching the straw décor and stone floor, Mesa is a laidback eatery serving refined comfort food.
And Sado, Sublime’s latest venture, offers delightful views of the rice paddies as you tuck into delicious local dishes in a bright and airy atmosphere.
In trendy Carvalhal, the recently opened JNcQUOI Deli Comporta is the talk of the town. Inspired by Portuguese taverns with an eccentric and refined twist, its menu, signed by chef Jerónimo Ferreira, mixes authentic Alentejo flavours with contemporary recipes.
JNcQUOI Deli Comporta
For a relaxing meal with a privileged view of the rice fields, book a table at Inari at the beautiful Quinta da Comporta resort. The vast wooden barn, with tall ceilings and an exclusive piece by artist Joana Vasconcelos hanging from the rafters, offers a varied menu of fresh, locally sourced ingredients and a separate sushi menu.
Where to shop
There is no escaping Comporta’s contagious bohemian style. The latest designer wear and interior design collections can be found in an array of striking boutiques.
In Comporta, on the Largo São João, an old bakery now houses Lavanda, an upscale concept store selling beach tunics, summer party dresses, patterned men’s shirts and decorative items.
Lavanda
Next door, Fio d’Água is known for its exquisite beach wear, including the high-end Brazilian brand Lenny Niemeyer, Futah beach towels and the ever-popular Havaianas.
Down the road, The Life Juice, created by Portuguese stylist Isabel Costa, sells a carefully curated selection of original pieces, ceramics, books, blankets, clothes and accessories. Tucked behind it, Côté Sud, one of the first boutiques to open in Comporta, sells a quietly sophisticated summer wear collection.
On Rua do Secador, in an ancient rice warehouse, Casa da Cultura includes a cinema room, a concept store featuring Portuguese-made products, and a wine bar.
Further down the street, two interior designer shops, Rice by Marta Mantero and Alaire, sell stylish, high-end furniture and home accessories. On the way to Comporta Beach, next to the Rice Museum, Loja do Museu do Arroz sells an eclectic mix of furniture, clothing and quirky decorative pieces. Next door and next to the local winery, Garcias is a vast wine and spirits shop: a must-visit whether you are looking for a bottle of local wine or Romanée-Conti for €52,000.
On Rua do Comércio, gourmands are spoilt for choice at Mercearia Gomes. This deluxe grocery store is packed with delicacies, fresh produce, and a curated selection of wines and champagnes. The shop is complemented by a restaurant serving Alentejo cuisine, a sparkling wine shop, a florist, and a small bakery.
Fashion Clinic
In Carvalhal, boutiques are concentrated on Avenida 18 de Dezembro. On it, we find Fashion Clinic, part of the opulent Amorim Luxury group. Designed to look and feel like a house, the shop is split over three floors and various rooms filled with the latest designer beach and resort wear.
Caju
A few doors down, the vibrant Caju concept store offers a selection of Portuguese and international brands. This treasure trove combines a café-bar with a great selection of clothing, accessories, cosmetics and decorations.
Across the road, Stork Club, created by French interior designer Jacques Grange and his partner Pierre Passebon, stocks exquisite interior design pieces by Portuguese and international artists.
At the very end of the road, Loja de Cá is a multicoloured shop selling wildly patterned shirts, exotic beach dresses and decoration pieces. For an eclectic selection of second-hand treasures, visit Senhor Júlio’s shop on the roadside at the entrance of Carvalhal.
Where to enjoy art
Comporta is certainly a cultural hotspot. Here, the joie de vivre and simple elegance set within nature draws creatives, contemporary artists and galleries.
British artist Jason Martin has had two studios in the region for a while with his undulating impasto abstract works. The German modern master Anselm Kiefer is also a long-time summer resident, renowned for his monumental and heavily material work.
Lisbon and international galleries are wisely following in the footsteps of these well-established designers and artists. When the art world decamps for the summer and away from the flashy art fairs, such as Basel and Frieze, some head to this quiet corner of the Alentejo. The Brazilian powerhouse gallery Fortes D’Aloia & Gabriel is at the vanguard and each year invites different galleries to collaborate on its’ Comporta summer exhibition, housed in a former rice barn run by Fundação Herdade da Comporta.
INSTALLATION VIEW OF THE EXHIBITION O CANTO DO BODE, COMPORTA, 2021. COURTESY OF LUISA STRINA AND FORTES D’ALOIA & GABRIEL, SÃO PAULO / RIO DE JANEIRO. PH. EDUARDO ORTEGA
Beyond these evolving private gallery exhibitions there are also public bodies providing a platform for artistic discourse. Galeria Zé dos Bois is a Lisbon-based arts organisation that has a strong presence in Comporta.
Property companies are also recognising the importance of incorporating artwork into their developments. In 2023, Vanguard Properties installed its first artwork at the site of its Dunas Terras da Comporta development, a sculpture by the acclaimed artist José Pedro Croft. The following year, the company commissioned the artist João Louro, whose piece entitled Happiness Molecule is situated near the Dunas Golf Course, a nod to the pleasure of leisure.
What to do beyond the beach
Beyond hobnobbing on white sandy beaches and shopping in fancy village boutiques, cycling and horse riding across the rice fields are some of the area’s biggest attractions. Cavalos na Areia set up its stables just outside Comporta village and is known for its extraordinary hacks that take you to the beach for a canter.
Cavalos na Areia
Golf is picking up, with two courses: the award-winning Dunas designed by David McLay Kidd and the soon-to-be-opened Torre course designed by Sergio García. These are part of the Vanguard real estate empire, which also plans to build 30 tennis courts in the area.
Cavalos na Areia
And, although Comporta may not boast the biggest waves, it is a great place to learn to surf. Local schools, such as Surf in Comporta, take aspiring surfers to the best spots to catch waves.
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