An island in bloom
Once famously described as a destination for the “newlywed and nearly dead”, Madeira is fast changing. Thanks to a new generation of cider and winemakers, chefs, and tourism entrepreneurs, this fascinating island is attracting younger travellers seeking new flavours.
Set off the coast of Africa, this wildly diverse island, with seven different microclimates and subtropical temperatures ranging between 18ºC and 26ºC year-round, has always been blessed with the elements of success; they just needed to be dusted off and showcased in a different light.
Recently, thanks to travel influencers such as Australian adventurer Jackson Groves, social networks have been doing just that, giving access to a never-before-seen Madeira, revealing its unique landscapes, and attracting an increasingly younger audience in search of adventure.
But the appeal does not stop there. The ‘new’ Madeira also offers something for increasingly epicurean travellers, with refreshed gastronomic offerings. Even the oldest icon of the island, Madeira wine, the beverage chosen to toast the signing of the United States Declaration of Independence in 1776, is undergoing a facelift. Well, partially, at least.
One of the most reputed Madeira wine producers is Blandy’s, founded by John Blandy in 1811. Seven generations later, the Blandy brand has expanded into shipping, tourism, real estate, media, and other industries. Yet, still today, its flagship product is Madeira wine. The best place to taste the portfolio is the Blandy’s Wine Lodge in downtown Funchal, where change is slowly taking place.
The brand has recently invested in a facelift for its 10-year-old Sercial, Verdelho, Bual, and Malmsey (Malvasia) single-varietals. The new wines are presented in clear bottles embossed with the Blandy name and embellished with colourful labels, an unconventional look created to appeal to younger consumers who will drink the wines chilled or mixed in cocktails.
But Madeira wine is not the island’s only iconic drink. In addition to table wine, the first of which was produced by the Blandy family in 1992, and, more recently, Gin, two drinks are the most popular with the locals: Poncha and cider. The first, made with sugarcane brandy, fruit juice, and honey or sugar, is said to be the “mother of the Caipirinha” and is not about to change.
But cider is another happy tale of rejuvenation, not only in terms of image but also its production process.
Originally deemed the beverage of the poor, this crisp nectar with salivating acidity is now earning gold medals at international competitions thanks to Márcio Nóbrega, a young entrepreneur with a vision for a modern Madeira where culture is preserved and refined.
Márcio Nóbrega
Up in the hills east of Funchal, in Camacha, known as “the island’s orchard”, what started as a refurbishment project for a boutique hotel soon turned into the regeneration of old and abandoned orchards and the refinement of the cider-making process. This is where, surrounded by tradition, Márcio uses modern winemaking techniques to produce still, sparkling, and fortified cider with some of the island’s best apple varieties.
This has not been an easy feat for Márcio, who has seen numerous artisan producers turn their backs on him for wanting to modernise the process. Yet, it has not dampened his enthusiasm. Honouring his island’s traditions is what motivates him.
Adega do Pomar Restaurant
His ambitious project includes the cidery, the hotel, and Adega do Pomar, a tavern-style restaurant led by chef Dúlio Freitas, who serves traditional Madeiran and Portuguese comfort food, best paired with Quinta da Moscadinha cider.
The island’s gastronomic scene is also experiencing a boom. Although traditional beef skewers with fried corn and black scabbard fish with banana are still very popular, discerning visitors will be glad to know the island now proudly counts three Michelin-starred restaurants: William*, Desarma*, and Il Gallo d’Oro**.
chef Dúlio Freitas
William, which renewed its Michelin star last year thanks to the innovative guidance of executive chef José Diogo Costa, is located in the luxurious Reid’s Palace and named after the hotel’s Scottish founder, William Reid.
Perched atop a cliff in Funchal Bay, the hotel is an island icon. Since its opening in 1891, it has hosted distinguished guests such as Sir Winston Churchill, Irish playwright George Bernard Shaw, and Austrian Empress Sissi.
Chef José Diogo Costa
Despite being a classic, Reid’s Palace is in constant evolution. Certain traditions, such as five o’clock tea on the hotel’s emblematic balcony, may remain, but much has changed over the last century.
Reids Palace
The hotel passed into the Blandy family’s hands in 1937, who in turn sold it to the Orient Express group in 1996. Today, it offers 123 rooms and suites, ranging from cosy Classic Rooms to majestic Presidential Suites boasting classic design complemented by luxurious marble bathrooms and all the amenities of a modern luxury hotel.
Its gastronomic evolution has followed suit with the young chef, whose mission is to keep the hotel’s gastronomic vision “fresh, imaginative, and at the height of epicurean excellence”.
Proving that tradition can mix with innovation, chef Costa created a menu showcasing the island’s essence, blending local culture with contemporary techniques.
Each perfectly executed dish, such as fresh tuna from the coast with green apples from the island’s orchards, is presented on a tailormade plate or traditional wicker tray to evoke Madeiraean traits.
This young gun also challenged cidermaker Márcio Nóbrega to add his touch to the menu. Together, they created a unique sparkling cider to kick-start the chef’s tasting menu, of which just 600 bottles were made.
Casa Velha do Palheiro
Although the Blandy family sold Reid’s Palace, they are still very much involved in tourism on the island. In addition to a travel agency and the PortoBay hotels, they own the lush 150-hectare Palheiro Nature Estate, which comprises the Casa Velha do Palheiro Relais & Châteaux hotel, a spa, an 18-hole golf course, a real estate development, exquisite gardens, and the acclaimed Oxalis restaurant, named after the pink flowers that bloom on the hotel’s lawn in the spring.
Built in 1804 as a hunting lodge for the Conde do Carvalhal, the hotel underwent a meticulous restoration in 1997.
Casa Velha do Palheiro
Designed as the ultimate nature retreat, it offers yoga and meditation, nature trail walks, and sumptuous spa treatments, such as a sugarcane and honey exfoliation that leaves your skin feeling like silk. Although the hotel oozes the quintessential charm of an Agatha Christie novel, the Palheiro Estate is very much focused on contemporary living, with a new sustainable housing project overlooking the golf course underway.
Chef Gonçalo Bita Bota
In the restaurant, behind the counter of his open kitchen, chef Gonçalo Bita Bota also embraces sustainability, celebrating nature and showcasing the island’s finest local produce. Part of the brigade of young chefs shaking up Madeira’s gastronomic scene, he is a strong contender for a Michelin star.
Oxalis Restaurant Madeira
His creations include cured trout from Ribeiro Frio with fennel ice cream, Bonito tuna with red pepper and watermelon and parrotfish with fennel textures and miso hollandaise paired with Portuguese wines, such as Fonte d’Areia from Porto Santo – a crisp white blend of the long-forgotten Caracol grape variety and Verdelho made by renowned wine producer Barbusano – and a ‘rejuvenated’ Blandy’s 10-year Bual with dessert.
Accidental success
Like many great things, Madeira wine was discovered by accident. Its origins date back to the 15th century when the island served as a ‘refuelling station’ for vessels to stock up on fresh water and provisions, such as wine, before embarking on lengthy maritime journeys.
Blandy
On a particular occasion, after an extended tour of India, a barrel of wine was returned untouched to a shipper who, after tasting the wine, noticed it had improved remarkably in the barrel. The improvement was due to the ship traversing the equator four times, with the warm temperatures of the tropics causing the wine to heat up.
For many years, shipping wines on a round trip became normal, and gave birth to the vinho da roda (round trip wine).
Eventually, this practice incurred high costs, and the arrival of steamships made the journey considerably swifter. As a result, vintners created techniques to mimic the maturation process on the island.
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