The fruit of generations
Time, patience, and passion are essential components of the winemaking process. In the Algarve hills, in São Bartolomeu de Messines, Herdade Barranco do Vale exemplifies this.
Acquired by Ramiro da Graça Cabrita, a prominent regional figure, the estate spans more than 100 hectares. “It extends on both sides of the road,” explains Ana Matias Chaves, Ramiro’s granddaughter, highlighting how the line in the winery’s logo symbolises this division.
It is on the north side of this estate that an ancient Negra Mole vineyard, believed to be over 70 years old, laid the foundation for this family’s winemaking traditions.
The third generation of the family, Ana is now perpetuating her grandfather’s legacy with the support of her husband, Luís, and son Tomás.
Having left Lisbon’s corporate world in 2016 with little knowledge of farming, she hit the ground running, learning how to cultivate and harvest olives, carob, cork, and even Churra Algarvia sheep.
“They are sheep, but with horns,” explains Ana. “We have a herd of 150 that helps us to fertilise the land when they graze among the vines after harvest.”
As for viticulture and winemaking, she has relied on the expertise of award-winning winemaker João do Ó.
Together, they are reviving the old Negra Mole vineyard, which yields the winery’s acclaimed rosé, and have planted new vineyards to expand their portfolio, now comprising 15 references. “We have ten hectares, but we’re not planning to plant more,” she asserts as she guides us through the vineyards on a hot summer’s day.
The vineyards are situated in a unique environment, characterised by predominantly schist soils and a rich natural diversity in a mountainous area.
“We have three exciting regions in the Algarve,” explains Ana, describing how each type of soil produces different styles of wine. “This is the Serra (hills). Then we have the Barrocal. Most producers are in the Barrocal. But each area has its own climate. And then there are the Arenosos”, sandy soils along the coast.
“Such a small region, with such varied types of soil and we are all influenced by different things,” which Ana believes makes the Algarve such a fascinating wine-producing region.
Commercial wine production at Herdade Barranco do Vale began in 2018 when they launched four references: three reds made with Aragonez and Castelão, and a Negra Mole rosé, all classified as Reserva.
In addition to the existing grape varieties – the 70-year-old Negra Mole, as well as Aragonez and Castelão, whose vines are over 20 years old – Ana and her team introduced white grape varieties, which started producing in 2018 and saw their first bottles reach the market in May 2019.
Herdade Barranco do Vale Negra Mole
“Here we have Alvarinho. We planted it in 2017,” she points out, as we walk through the vineyards. “We have Arinto from the Bucelas area, and we also have Antão Vaz from the Alentejo, a little further ahead. With it, we make an almost multicultural blend that has become one of our most popular wines over the years.” This is the Branco Reserva 2023 (€12.95), a fresh blend of the three white varieties that presents an intense golden hue, revealing the influence of wood ageing. With notes of tropical, citrus, and white fruit, this velvety, well-balanced wine boasts a persistent finish.
However, the Negra Mole vineyard is the apple of Ana’s eye. The ancient vines became a success when, faced with a restricted quantity of reds to launch at a time when they had no whites, they decided to use this unpopular local variety, known for its unusual bunches of mixed red and white grapes, to make a single-varietal rosé.
“From then on, it became very representative of our wines. And it’s still the wine that many people appreciate the most.” Fresh, dry, and mineral, the Rosé Negra Mole Reserva 2024 (€15.95) has a typical aroma of strawberries characteristic of the Negra Mole, complemented by floral notes with hints of white chocolate. A creamy rosé with good structure and a persistent finish.
In addition to its blends and Negra Mole Rosé, the winery produces several single-varietal wines.
The reds include the elegant Aragonês Reserva 2022 (€14.95), which has aromas of wild fruits and violet flowers on the nose, complemented by balsamic notes, spices, and subtle wood undertones.
Herdade Barranco do Vale Reserva
In the mouth, it is smooth and dry, with good concentration. The white single-varietals include the Chardonnay Reserva 2021 (€13.95), which reveals aromas of quince and peach with soft citrus and spicy notes. It is a gastronomic wine with creaminess, good acidity, and a saline finish.
Herdade Barranco do Vale Grande Reserva wines
In 2023, the winery launched its first Grande Reserva wines, a selection of vintages of higher quality and longer oak ageing.
The Tinto Grande Reserva 2020 (€24.95) is a blend of the winery’s best Castelão and Aragonês grapes, characterised by aromas of red berries, plums and some tobacco with spicy notes. On the palate, it is soft and enveloping, with good structure.
The Branco Grande Reserva 2020 (€24.95), a blend of Antão Vaz, Arinto, and Alvarinho, is fresh and saline, featuring delicate notes of white stone fruit, a creamy texture, well-integrated wood, and a persistent finish.
Another highlight is the exquisite Viognier Grande Reserva 2021 (€24.95), an aromatic wine that displays the colour of an oxidised wine, combined with the freshness of a young wine, with notes of apricot, honey, and tangerine zest. Well-balanced, it offers the creaminess of oak combined with good acidity and a lingering finish.
There is no doubt that this project is driven by love and nostalgia for past generations and local culture, which Ana is eager to share with wine enthusiasts. Since launching their first wine, she and her husband, Luís, have written a letter to Ramiro each year, updating him on the family’s and the farm’s progress; a heartfelt tribute printed on the back label of every Herdade Barranco do Vale bottle.
Our lively hostess also organises regular guided tours of the property, conducted in a trailer pulled by a tractor.
As the tour winds through the vineyards and olive groves, she shares her grandfather’s story, details farm operations, and describes the grape varieties they cultivate.
The experience concludes with a tasting at the whitewashed winery on the hilltop, where she presents five wines paired with local delicacies such as cheese, ham, and olive oil. These two-hour tours, including tastings, cost between €35 and €50 per person and are available by appointment only.
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