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From soft and smooth to firm and tangy, discover t...

From soft and smooth to firm and tangy, discover the Portuguese cheeses that will add flavour to your festive season


By: Alexandra Stilwell  

Photo: ©Hélio Ramos

Lesser-known than other types, Portuguese cheeses deserve their moment in the spotlight

Lesser known than their French, Italian, Swiss, and even English counterparts, Portuguese cheeses lack the visibility they deserve. Ranging from fresh and creamy to cured and tangy, a delicious selection offers a diverse range of flavours, perfect for featuring on every cheeseboard this season. 

The most famous Portuguese cheeses are, without a doubt, the creamy “amanteigado” cheeses from areas such as Serra da Estrela, the queijos frescos often served as an amuse-bouche in traditional tascas, and of course, the Flamengo from the Azores used to make every tosta mista across the nation. 

To help you discover some of Portugal’s finest cheeses and navigate the festive cheese boards, we spoke to Alda Gonçalves, cheese specialist at the Apolonia Supermarkets. 

With over 20 years of experience, Alda oversees the chain’s selection of both national and international cheeses.  

“Our selection has evolved in response to our customers’ demands. This includes both local and international cheeses, as we serve clients from all over the world. We always have new products coming in,” says the expert.  

Alda

“The most recent additions in terms of national cheeses are the Pico Island cheese with pepper from the Azores, and the mixed milk cheese from Herdade da Maia, from the Alentejo,” she adds. 

However, Alda says that the most popular Portuguese cheeses at Apolonia “naturally, are the Serra da Estrela DOP [Protected Designation of Origin] cheese and cheeses from the different islands of the Azores”. 

Serra da Estrela DOP

Renowned for their oozy, silky texture, “amanteigado” cheeses are often served with a spoon and are considered a delicacy reserved for special occasions. Good examples include Serra, Serpa, Azeitão, and Rabaçal.  

So, which one should you have on your Christmas cheeseboard? “All our buttery cheeses deserve to be present on a Christmas table, but if you have to choose, then my suggestion falls on the Serra da Estrela cheese,” concedes Alda. 

Of course, to enjoy your cheeses fully, much like wine, they should be served at the right temperature. Our cheese expert offers essential tips: “All cheese, whether buttery or cured, should be eaten at room temperature.  

Therefore, we recommend removing cheeses from the fridge and their packaging at least 15 minutes before serving if they are small, and at least two hours for larger cheeses.  

However, it always depends on personal taste; the more buttery you prefer your cheese, especially if it’s whole, the longer it should be left at room temperature. Ripened cheeses should be enjoyed at room temperature and kept in a cool place, allowing you to fully appreciate the sensory notes of the cheese you are tasting.” 

Natural goat’s cheese

Those who appreciate intense flavours will enjoy Portuguese goat cheeses. These range from fresh to cured, such as the Cabra Transmontano and the smooth Planície Branca, and even the unusual Chiba Cinza de Cabra Casa Pratas, covered in ash.

Transmontano goat’s cheese

Alda explains: “Cheese is a secular food, and in the past, ash was placed on the surface of the cheese as a protection against insects. Nowadays, ash gives cheese a creamier texture and a more acidic and earthy flavour, in addition to the fact that for some producers it serves as a visual aesthetic note.”  

Chiba Cinza goat’s cheese

If you are looking for locally produced goat cheeses, there are a few “fresh” options, such as simple goat cheese, goat cheese with tomato and oregano, and goat cheese with basil and globe amaranth. 

São Jorge Island cheese

Also packing a punch is the tangy São Jorge cheese from the Azores. The most famous cheese from the archipelago, apart from Flamengo, now faces several competitors from other islands, each with very different characteristics.  

“The cheeses from São Jorge Island, due to the climate, develop a spicier and more intense flavour, which becomes stronger with longer curing (ranging from 4 to 24 months). All of them have a clear and clean bouquet and a hard but brittle texture that is accentuated with curing time,” explains Alda, who then describes the cheeses from the other islands.  

São Miguel Island cheese

“The Famoso Island cheese, made on the island of São Miguel, features a semi-hard paste, a firm texture, and a clean aroma, making it the most popular among children for its pleasant taste; São Miguel cheese, with a nine-month maturation period, features a semi-hard, crumbly paste, a firm texture, and an unmistakably strong, spicy aroma with hints of pineapple; whilst Pico cheeses are younger and softer, with a very distinctive flavour. Slightly intense and acidulous, it reminds those who taste it of the famous French Reblochon.” 

Famoso Island cheese

When pairing these delightful cheeses, there are several sweet and salty options. All types of cheese can be paired with nuts, fresh fruit, jams, honey, and wine. For example, “Serra da Estrela cheese pairs perfectly with honey, fig jam, nuts, and an old Port wine.  

 

Azeitão DOP

The Azeitão cheese, on the other hand, pairs well with Alentejo bread and dried fruits, accompanied by a Vinho Verde from Quintas de Melgaço, specifically Vinhas Velhas Alvarinho.  

Goat’s cheese with tomato and oregano

For goat cheese lovers, Transmontano pairs nicely with walnut marmalade, served with a Tawny Port or a fruity white wine. São Jorge cheese, which is suitable for fondues, also pairs well with fresh fruit such as pears and muscat grapes”. 

Goat’s cheese with basil and globe amaranth

However, there is one pairing that the Portuguese enjoy above all: the traditional Marmelada – quince paste, which the English confused with orange jam when Catarina de Bragança brought both to England.  

“Marmelada is perfect for those who like to feel the contrast between salty and sweet. It’s the ideal pairing for Portuguese cheeses, as well as many international cheeses. From our selection, I recommend the Santa Teresa quince marmalade, available in natural or walnut flavours.” 

To make your party planning easier, Alda and her team prepare cheese boards that can be customised to your preferences. For a flavourful cheese board during this festive season, the cheese expert recommends a mix of cheeses.  

“Usually, when I prepare a board, I like to combine national and international cheeses. Not only because we have incredible cheeses from different origins, but also so that our customers can enjoy the diversity of cheeses.

Beira Baixa DOP

However, if the idea is only to have national cheeses, I suggest the following: Serra da Estrela PDO, São Jorge Island PDO 7-month-cured, Beiralacte Goat Cheese, Queijo Amarelo from Beira Baixa PDO, and Pico Island cheese with local pepper,” concludes Alda. A delicious selection that offers a taste of Portugal’s finest. 

Pico Island “Amanteigado” cheese

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