In the heart of Tavira, tradition and audacity come together effortlessly, and the Algarve is celebrated with skill, heritage and flair
During our visit, À Mesa, led by chef João Dias, had just retained its Michelin-recommended status, cementing its position as one of the region’s premier culinary destinations.
The project was born in 2019, as a tapas restaurant located in Jardim da Alagoa. But from the very beginning, it showed an ambition that went beyond that concept. “As my training is in fine dining, there was always a tendency to move in that direction. And the customers were asking for it too,” recalls João Dias.
What began as a relaxed venue gradually evolved into a more sophisticated offering. And so, on October 2, 2024, the restaurant moved to a new location at Rua Álvaro de Campos 14, into a building steeped in history. “It’s one of the oldest buildings in Tavira,” says the chef.
Completely refurbished, the space now seats around 50 guests, both indoors and outdoors, whilst retaining an intimate atmosphere that enhances the dining experience.
This is where the À Mesa concept truly shines: a cuisine deeply rooted in local produce and Portuguese tradition, especially that of the Algarve, but reimagined using contemporary techniques and international influences.
“The inspiration comes from traditional Portuguese food and Algarve produce. But since I’ve worked in Brazil, Macau, Thailand, Paris and Hong Kong, I also introduce flavours that aren’t quite so Portuguese,” explains the chef. The result is a dynamic menu that changes twice a year, always reflecting the seasons and the freshest available ingredients.
The restaurant has both à la carte dining and tasting menus – four in total, including a vegetarian option – reflecting a growing, albeit moderate, demand. “It’s important to feature these dishes on both the à la carte and tasting menus, not least to ensure product rotation and freshness,” the chef emphasizes.
Among the more iconic dishes, two creations stand out for having won over diners and solidified the restaurant’s identity. One is the creamy cod with gamba da costa prawns, delicately balancing richness and freshness: the semi-cured cod and cream contrast with the acidity of a celery pickle and the aromatic lightness of basil.
Meanwhile, the grilled croaker fish with coriander rice and a champagne and lemon sauce remains a classic that cannot be missed. “Interestingly, fish and seafood tend to stand out more than meat,” shares João Dias.
But it is perhaps in his most daring dishes that the chef showcases his signature style. The purple prawn with turnip textures, featuring grilled turnip spaghetti, fermented purée and an “unexpected” clementine gel, is a clear example of this approach. “It’s a very unusual combination and it works very well,” he says. “I like to mix things up – offering some straightforward, comforting dishes alongside more adventurous creations for people who enjoy taking risks.”
That duality is also reflected in the way the restaurant positions itself with its predominantly international clientele. Between 60% and 80% of customers are foreign (Americans, Germans and Scandinavians), many of whom temporary residents or frequent visitors to the region.
Even so, À Mesa retains a loyal Portuguese fan base, particularly during the summer months. However, João Dias has noticed a shift in the profile of the tourist crowd. “I don’t know if we have more tourists, but we certainly have better tourists. People are also more restrained,” he says. This shift is also evident in eating habits, with a growing preference for quality over quantity, particularly when it comes to wine.
A graduate of the Algarve School of Hospitality and Tourism in Faro, the chef has built his career between Portugal and international venues, experiences that continue to subtly influence his cuisine. Today, he sees À Mesa as an established venture that is constantly evolving. “We try to improve every year. We have customers who come back and recommend us, and that’s what matters most,” he reflects.
The Michelin Guide’s distinction, listing À Mesa as a ‘Recommended’ establishment after its initial Bib Gourmand inclusion, is a testament to this ongoing commitment. Whilst the focus remains on customer satisfaction, the ambition is clear: a Michelin star.
“We are working towards that,” João Dias assures.
Looking ahead, the chef does not rule out the possibility of expanding his culinary horizons, though without replicating the À Mesa concept. The idea is to explore different aspects of the restaurant industry that could complement the current project. There is no shortage of ideas; “sometimes the hardest part is putting them into practice”, he admits.
For now, À Mesa continues to establish itself as a place where Portuguese cuisine is reinterpreted, without losing its identity; a place where the unexpected is welcome, and where every dish invites you to discover unlikely combinations that nevertheless make perfect sense.
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